How to Wash a Softshell Jacket Without Damaging the Stretch or DWR

Introduction

A softshell jacket occupies the middle ground between a fleece and a hardshell. It blocks wind, resists light precipitation, breathes better than any membrane jacket, and stretches enough to climb or ski in. Jackets like the Arc'teryx Gamma LT, the Black Diamond Dawn Patrol, the Patagonia R1 TechFace, and the Marmot ROM use fabrics from Schoeller, Polartec (Power Shield), and proprietary woven blends that cost 150 to 350 dollars.

Softshell fabrics are deceptively complex. A typical softshell from Schoeller (say, the Dryskin or WB-400) is a double-weave construction: a tight, smooth outer face for wind resistance and durability, and a brushed, lofted inner face for warmth and moisture transport. The outer face is treated with DWR. The inner face has a mechanical stretch from the weave pattern and a chemical stretch from elastane fibers woven in.

Cleaning these garments incorrectly damages one or both faces. Aggressive detergents strip the DWR. Fabric softener clogs the inner fleece face so it no longer wicks. Heat degrades the elastane, and the jacket loses its shape. Here is the right way to care for softshells.

Understanding Softshell Materials

Before washing, know what you are dealing with:

Schoeller fabrics (Dryskin, WB-400, Dynamic): A Swiss textile company that invented the softshell category. Schoeller fabrics use a densely woven nylon or polyester face with a DWR treatment, and a micro-fleece backer. They contain 5 to 15 percent elastane for stretch. Some versions have a polyurethane membrane (WB-400) and some are purely mechanical stretch (Dryskin). The PU membrane versions should be treated like a lightweight hardshell for washing purposes.

Polartec Power Shield: A membrane-based softshell with an elastomeric membrane for wind blocking and a grid-fleece backer. The High Loft version is particularly sensitive to heat. Power Shield Pro replaced Power Shield, using a polyurethane-impregnated weave rather than a discrete membrane.

Polartec NeoShell: Technically an air-permeable waterproof membrane (like eVent), but often categorized as a softshell due to its stretch and soft hand feel. Wash like Gore-Tex: tech wash, double rinse, heat reactivation.

Proprietary blends: The Arc'teryx Fortius fabric (on the Gamma series), Patagonia's Regulator fleece-faced softshell (R1 TechFace), and The North Face Apex fabrics. Most are double-weaves with DWR and elastane.

The Wash Process

Detergent choice: Use Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers Performance Wash. These are the same products recommended for hard shells. They clean effectively but rinse completely. The key difference from hardshell care is that softshells are more tolerant of gentle standard detergents used in small amounts, provided the detergent contains no fabric softener, no bleach, and no optical brighteners. If you do not have tech wash, use a small amount of mild liquid detergent (like Seventh Generation Free and Clear) and run an extra rinse.

Water temperature: Use warm water (30 degrees C / 86 degrees F). Cold water does not effectively remove the body oils that accumulate on softshell inner faces. The brushed backer of a double-weave softshell acts like a fleece, holding oils against the skin. Warm water dissolves these oils. Do not exceed 40 degrees C, which damages elastane fibers.

Cycle selection: Delicate or gentle cycle. Softshells are heavier than hardshells when wet and can throw the drum off balance if it spins too aggressively. Low spin speed is important. A high-speed spin can stretch the elastane permanently, creating a rippled or wavy effect along the hem and cuffs.

Zip and close everything: Like a hardshell, all zippers should be closed to prevent snagging. The zippers on softshell jackets (often Vislon molded-tooth zippers) are particularly prone to catching the face fabric because softshell fabrics have a softer, more abrasive outer surface than the slick nylon of a hardshell.

Do not use fabric softener: This cannot be overstated. The inner brushed face of a softshell, when coated with fabric softener, loses its ability to move moisture. You end up with a jacket that feels soft but leaves you clammy inside. Once fabric softener residue is baked into the face (through a trip through the dryer), it takes multiple washes to remove.

Drying a Softshell Jacket

Air dry is best: Hang the jacket on a wide plastic hanger (not a wire hanger, which creates shoulder dimples). Dry at room temperature. A softshell dries faster than a cotton hoodie because the synthetic face fabric holds very little water. The brushed inner face takes longer. Ensure both faces are dry before storing.

Machine drying with caution: If the care label permits tumble drying (most do, on low), you can dry on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. This brief heat exposure reactivates the DWR on the outer face. Any longer, and you risk degrading the elastane. Set a timer and remove the jacket while it is still slightly damp. Finish drying on a hanger.

Do not iron: Some softshells (particularly Schoeller WB-400 with the PU membrane layer) can be damaged by direct ironing. If you need to reactivate the DWR and cannot use a dryer, hang the jacket in a warm bathroom after a shower and let the ambient heat and humidity do the work. It is less effective but safer.

Restoring DWR on a Softshell

Softshell DWR wears off faster than hardshell DWR because softshells lack a separate membrane layer; the DWR is the primary water resistance. Once water stops beading on the shoulders and outer sleeves, it is time to reapply.

Spray-on DWR (Grangers Performance Repel Plus Spray, Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On) is preferred for softshells because it applies to the outer face only. Wash-in DWR treats both faces, and applying DWR to the inner fleecy face is counterproductive -- it reduces the wicking ability without providing any weather protection benefit.

To apply spray-on DWR: wash the jacket, and while it is still damp from the wash (do not let it dry completely), spray the DWR treatment evenly across the outer face. Focus on high-wear areas: shoulders, outer sleeves, and the front zip area. Wipe off any overspray that gets on the inner face. Tumble dry on low for 15 minutes to cure the DWR, or let it air dry if the care label prohibits machine drying.

Maintaining the Stretch

Elastane (spandex, Lycra) fibers degrade from three things: heat, chlorine, and prolonged continuous tension. Washing in hot water or drying on high heat permanently damages the elastane's elastic recovery. Chlorine bleach destroys elastane in a single wash. If you leave a softshell jacket stretched over the back of a chair to dry for days, the elastane fibers can take a set in that stretched position and lose their ability to contract fully.

If your softshell jacket has lost its snap -- it feels baggy at the elbows or saggy around the waist -- the elastane has likely degraded and cannot be restored. This is the natural end of life for a heavily used softshell. Elastane typically lasts three to five years of regular use, after which the mechanical stretch of the weave is all that remains. The jacket will feel slightly looser but remain functional.

Special Cases

Windstopper softshells: These use a Gore Windstopper membrane (essentially Gore-Tex without the oleophobic treatment on the inner layer, which makes it windproof but not fully waterproof). Wash like Gore-Tex with tech wash, and the DWR can be reactivated with heat.

Infiniun softshells: Gore-Tex Infiniun is the new branding for Windstopper. Same care protocol.

Leather-paneled softshells: Some climbing-oriented jackets have leather patches on shoulders or elbows (for rope abrasion). Do not submerge these. Spot clean the fabric panels with a damp cloth and tech wash, and condition the leather separately with a leather balm.

Conclusion

Softshell jacket care is a middle ground between fleece care and hardshell care. Use tech wash, warm (not hot) water, the gentle cycle, and minimal machine drying. Reapply DWR with a spray-on product, not wash-in, to preserve the inner face's wicking ability. Avoid fabric softener entirely. With proper care, a high-end softshell should perform for five to eight years before the elastane and face fabric show meaningful wear.