How to Clean and Maintain a Multi-Tool: Leatherman and Gerber Care Guide

The Tool Steels Inside Your Multi-Tool

Leatherman builds the majority of their line from 420HC stainless steel, heat-treated in-house in Portland, Oregon to 55-57 HRC. This includes the Wave+, Surge, Rebar, Super Tool 300, and most of the Skeletool series. 420HC in a multi-tool is a deliberate choice: it sharpens quickly, resists rust well enough for pocket carry, and is tough enough to tolerate abuse that would chip a harder steel. The premium Charge+ TTI upgrades the main blade to 154CM at 58-61 HRC, a noticeable improvement in edge retention for roughly 60 dollars more than the Wave+. The older Charge+ TTI also used S30V on some production runs.

Gerber uses a range of stainless steels on their multi-tools. The Center-Drive and MP600 series use stainless formulations similar to 420HC. The Gerber Diesel and Suspension NXT use lower-cost stainless that still performs adequately with regular maintenance.

The Leatherman Surge file is made from case-hardened high-carbon steel; it will cut mild steel and brass. The saw blade is proprietary hardened steel, designed for wood only. The wire cutters in modern Leatherman models (2018 and newer) are replaceable inserts made from hardened tool steel, available as a spare part for roughly 10 dollars.

Deep Cleaning After a Trip

A multi-tool lives in your pocket or on your belt. Over days or weeks of use, it accumulates pocket lint, dirt, dried sweat, food residue, sap, sand, and salt. If you have used the tool in saltwater, the salt will embed itself in every pivot and joint. Cleaning is not optional.

Start with a container large enough to submerge the tool fully opened. Warm water with a few drops of dish soap (Dawn or similar degreasing liquid) works for every metal and plastic component. Submerge the tool with all implements open, and let it soak for 15 to 30 minutes. The warm water loosens dried crud in the pivots, and the soap emulsifies oils and grease.

After soaking, work the cleaning into the joints. An old toothbrush is the right tool; the bristles reach into the pivot gaps and scrub the exposed surfaces. Open and close each tool repeatedly while submerged to pump soapy water through the pivots. For compacted debris that resists the toothbrush, a wooden toothpick or dental pick reaches into crevices without scratching the metal. Bamboo skewers work well for cleaning between the plier head halves.

Pay special attention to the plier head pivot area. This is the hardest-working joint on the tool, and debris here causes the characteristic gritty, grinding feel of a dirty multi-tool. Work the pliers open and closed while submerged and scrubbing.

A compressed air blowout after the soak is highly effective. A can of compressed air, or a home air compressor set to low pressure, blows out water and loose debris from the pivots. Angle the air stream into each pivot gap. You will see crud fly out that the toothbrush never reached.

After cleaning, the drying step matters as much as the washing. Water trapped in pivots causes rust, and it rusts from the inside out where you cannot see it until the joint starts binding. Towel-dry the exterior thoroughly. Use a hair dryer on low heat to warm the tool and evaporate trapped water from the pivots. Open all tools fully, lay the multi-tool flat on a towel, and let it air dry for at least a few hours in a warm indoor space. Do not put it away damp. Do not put it in a sheath damp. Do not oil it until it is dry.

Pivot Lubrication

Once dry, every pivot on the tool needs one drop of oil. The standard recommendations are 3-in-1 Oil (the classic household oil, about 4 dollars for a 3-ounce bottle), Ballistol (a mineral oil based product that cleans and protects, about 10 dollars for a 6-ounce can), or purpose-made oils like Leatherman Tool Oil (about 5 dollars for a 0.5-ounce pen applicator).

Apply one drop to each pivot, on both sides of the tool. Work the oil in by opening and closing each implement 10 to 20 times. The oil spreads through the bearing surfaces and pushes out any remaining moisture. After working it in, wipe away every trace of excess oil with a clean cloth. Excess oil on the surface attracts dirt and pocket lint, which will sooner than you think make its way back into the pivots you just cleaned.

The plier head pivot is the most important to lubricate. It bears the highest load and is the hardest to clean, so keeping it lubricated reduces both friction and corrosion.

Pivot Tightness Adjustment

Over time, pivot screws can loosen from repeated opening and closing. A loose blade feels sloppy and can fold when you do not want it to. Leatherman uses Torx T8 and T10 security screws on most models made after roughly 2010. The Wiha 26390 or Bondhus T8/T10 drivers are reliable tools for this. Older Leatherman models use standard hex or proprietary fasteners; Leatherman has changed the design several times over the decades and there is no universal pattern, so examine your tool before buying bits.

To tighten: find the screw on the pivot you want to adjust. There are two sides; you can tighten from either. Tighten until the tool holds position when open but deploys with moderate pressure. A blade that requires two hands to open is too tight. A blade that swings freely with gravity is too loose. After setting the tension, apply a small dot of blue Loctite 242 to the screw threads. Blue Loctite prevents loosening from vibration but can be broken free with hand tools. Do not use red Loctite, which requires heat (over 500 degrees Fahrenheit) to release and will destroy nylon components inside the tool before the Loctite lets go.

Gerber multi-tools use a variety of fasteners that change between models. The MP600 uses riveted construction on some pivots, meaning they are not user-adjustable. The Center-Drive uses Torx screws.

Rust Removal

Stainless is stain-less, not stain-proof. 420HC will develop surface rust spots when exposed to salt, humidity, or acidic substances and left unmaintained. Rust shows first on the less-polished internal surfaces and pivot areas.

For light surface rust spots, 0000 steel wool with a drop of oil removes the rust without scratching the underlying finish. Rub gently in the direction of the existing grain. A brass brush or bronze wool also works and leaves no steel particles behind.

For more stubborn rust, Flitz metal polish or Simichrome applied with a soft cloth removes rust and restores shine. These are mild abrasives suspended in a carrier; they cut the oxidation layer without cutting into the base metal.

Never use vinegar or other acids on a multi-tool. Vinegar (acetic acid) etches the steel surface, leaving a dull gray matte finish that looks worse than the rust you were trying to remove. Acid also attacks the microscopic edges of the pivots and can accelerate future rusting.

Blade Sharpening

Multi-tool blades are typically flat-ground with a secondary bevel at roughly 20 degrees per side. The Spyderco Sharpmaker set to its 40-degree inclusive (20 per side) setting works well. The angle guide is built in, you hold the knife vertically, and the alumina ceramic rods cut the 420HC steel efficiently.

For a freehand approach, a medium-fine diamond stone (600 grit, roughly DMT Fine) raises a burr quickly and a few passes on a fine ceramic or Arkansas stone refine the edge. Multi-tool blades are short (typically 2.5 to 3 inches on Leatherman, up to 3.5 on the Surge), so a small stone like the DMT credit card sharpener or Fallkniven DC4 is appropriately sized.

Serrated blades, found on many Leatherman models including the Wave+ and Charge+, require a tapered diamond rod or the corners of the Sharpmaker. Sharpen each serration individually. The factory grind is typically chisel-ground (one beveled side, one flat side). Only sharpen the beveled side. A single light pass on the flat side removes the burr. The Sharpmaker's triangular rods are sized exactly to fit typical serration scallops.

File Maintenance

The diamond-coated file (on the Wave+, Charge+, and Surge) cleans with a brass brush or nylon brush and warm soapy water. The Surge also includes a standard metal file. A file cannot be resharpened by the user; when it stops cutting, order a replacement. Brass brush the teeth clean periodically to remove impacted metal and wood particles; a clogged file cuts poorly.

Scissor Pivot and Sharpening

Leatherman scissors (found on the Wave+, Charge+, Surge, Micra, and Style series) need lubrication at their pivot screw. The scissors are a shearing tool; they cut by two edges passing each other. If the pivot is loose, the blades gap and fold material instead of cutting it. Tighten the pivot screw (typically a small Torx or Phillips) until the blades close with a smooth sliding contact along their full length.

Sharpen scissors by lightly honing the flat side of each blade (not the beveled side) on a fine stone or diamond plate. A single pass on each blade, keeping the flat face perfectly flat on the stone, removes the wire edge. Do not sharpen the beveled side; the geometry depends on the meeting angle between the two flat-ground inner faces.

Replaceable Wear Parts

Leatherman sells replacement wire cutter inserts (part number 930393 for the Wave+/Charge+ style heads) for roughly 10 dollars. These are hardened steel inserts that bolt into the plier head. When they chip or dull, swap them out with a Torx driver. This 2-minute fix restores the most commonly worn component to new condition.

The saw blade on a Leatherman is proprietary and ordered through Leatherman's parts department. It runs around 5 to 8 dollars. The file runs roughly the same. The bit kit (plastic sleeve with assorted hex and Torx bits) wears from bit loss more than bit wear; individual bits are standard 1/4-inch hex and replaceable from any hardware store.

Pocket Clip and Sheath Care

The removable pocket clip on Leatherman models (Wave+, Charge+, Surge) attaches with two small Torx screws. Check them periodically; they loosen more often than you think. Apply a tiny dab of blue Loctite to the threads once you have them torqued.

Nylon and leather sheaths accumulate grit that abrades the tool. Turn the sheath inside out occasionally, shake out loose debris, and wipe the interior with a damp cloth. For leather sheaths, a light application of leather conditioner every few months prevents cracking at the fold points. Let the sheath dry completely before reinserting the tool.

Gerber-Specific Notes

Gerber's sliding jaw mechanism on the MP600 and MP400 deploys the plier head by sliding the handles forward. This mechanism needs occasional cleaning of its internal track. Compressed air and a light oil coat keep it sliding smoothly. A gritty sliding mechanism on an MP600 is almost always dried grease and pocket lint, not a mechanical fault.

The Gerber Center-Drive uses a standard 1/4-inch bit driver that accepts any hex bit, including long bits. The bit retention magnet picks up metal shavings over time; clean it with masking tape (press on, peel off) or a small magnet.

Warranty

Leatherman offers a 25-year warranty that covers virtually everything, including user-caused damage. If you break the pliers prying on something you should not have pried on, Leatherman will still replace or repair the tool. They ask you to send the tool to Portland with a brief description of what happened. Turnaround runs 2 to 4 weeks. Do not send sentimental tools that cannot be replaced; Leatherman marks each tool internally and does not guarantee return of the exact same tool, only the same model.

Gerber offers a limited lifetime warranty that excludes normal wear and tear, which they define more broadly than Leatherman does. A broken Gerber blade from prying will usually be covered; a dull blade from normal use will not.